Sunset from Camp 2 on Ama Dablam in Nepal.

No Room at the Inn

Ama Dablam, Nepal (20,000')

Camping at 20,000 ft. during a monthlong expedition on Ama Dablam (6,812 m / 22,349 ft) in November 2023. I took this image at 20k' while tied to a rope on a cliff above a thousand foot drop-off. Shown here is the incredibly situated ‘Camp 2’ on Ama, one of the most unique places on Earth to camp. The precarious campsite lies on an exposed rock ledge above a huge drop off. Each tent is tied to rocks to prevent it from blowing off the cliff. As you can imagine, sleep was awful given the tents are slanted and lie atop uneven boulders. On top of that, you’re at 20,000 ft. and just finished an intense day of climbing to reach Camp 2. To reach this camp, one must climb the ‘Yellow Tower’, a nearly vertical rock wall that is rated 5.8 rock climbing at just below 20,000 ft.

Following Camp 2, we ascended a thousand feet to Camp 3. From there, our team started at 2 a.m., successfully summiting Ama Dablam at 5:45 a.m. Photographing sunrise from 22k+ is a moment I’ll never forget. I couldn’t have done it without our two incredible sherpas - Fura & Kiran - and my teammate Emily. This climb was surely the hardest I’ve ever been a part of, but also the most incredible. I’ve never been pushed by a mountain like I have on Ama. Following our summit, we descended nearly 8,000 ft with 20+ rappels to arrive back at base camp ~9 p.m., meaning our summit day had gone nearly 18 hours long. The second we reached base camp I threw up and struggled to pour myself a cup of tea but it was all worth it… I’ll cherish this climb for the rest of my life.

Ama Dablam - which means “Mother’s Necklace” in Nepali - lies in the Everest Region and is often referred to as “The Matterhorn of the Himalaya”. It is one of the most beautiful mountains on Earth and is one of the more technical mountains to climb in the Himalaya, including more technical than Mt. Everest.
Photo © copyright by Jason Weiss.

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